Crotto di Pina

July 5, 2008
Lake Como
Fiumilatte di Varenna

Crotto di Pina – are we there yet?

One is always reminded to veer off onto the road less traveled, away from where ‘everyone goes’. We took a long walk today, to a small hamlet on the shore of Lake Como. We weren’t sure what we would find, but what we found was one of those wonderful experiences that we’ll be talking about for a lifetime. It involved a small ristorante and grappa.
Bob found the place on the map, he was convinced there was a restaurant at the top of the hill. Some of us weren’t so sure, but oh well, we were going to at least see some sort of view. After a 15 minute walk, uphill, on a very narrow street, there is was, Ristorante Crotto. The name was painted on the concrete retaining wall framing the steps up to the restaurant. Finally! Water (no gas, please), food and Peroni’s awaited us. The proprietor, Favio, was excited we were there, all eight of us, as there was only one other table occupied with 4 locals.
Menus and Peroni’s around, we were just happy to have a moment to rest, relax and enjoy the view. Upon closer inspection of the menu, we were about to have a meal that could possibly rival the view. The view, being of Lake Como, the surrounding mountains, the town of Varenna and Casetello di Vezio. The restaurant specialized in greilled meats & fresh lake fish. Favio invited Ernie and myself into the kitchen (immaculately clean) to show us some of the specialty items and how they were prepared. I selected a fresh lake fish (similar to trout – but cannot remember the name) directly from the table where they were being filleted by one of the three women working in the kitchen.
Everyone had something different. Since the place specialized in grilled meats, Ernie, Bob and Hollis opted for the mixed grill platter, which had beef, chicken, pork, lamb & venison, with polenta and grilled vegetables. Dad had a wonderful chestnut pasta with gorgonzola cream sauce & shaved fresh truffles. Mom & Jill had the bresaola and rocket salad with shaved parmesan.
After lunch, we met the baker, David, whose bread we were enjoying during lunch. We met David, because Ernie introduced himself and struck up a conversation with the other table having lunch. David being one of them. Soon, we met the owner’s father (whose name we did not get), and very soon after, we were offered his grappa. Wonderful grappa. His was homemade with dried wine grapes. It was very strong, but had a similarity to cognac, in color and taste. The grappa was offered in a glass that was 70 years old. Ernie wanted to purchase some of the grappa, but was told it was not possible since it was such a small production and he only shared it amongst family and friends. We were honored. It was a lovely afternoon, everyone was so friendly and welcoming, that we did not care that we had missed our 1620 train to Milan. We stayed a bit long to enjoy the company before making our trek back down the hill and to Varenna, to the train station and back to Milan.