Wednesday, July 2, 2008
First Day in Italy
Milan Hilton
After a two hour delay in Los Angeles, due to improper cargo stowage, we finally transited London Heathrow and arrived into Milan Linate Airport. One crazy cab ride later, dodging other cars, mopeds and pedestrians, we finally arrived at our room for the night. The weather was overcast & muggy, 30C.
We made it out for dinner; Ernie had struck up a conversation with an Italian Attorney on our London-Milan flight, who gave us a recommendation for dinner that evening. We set reservations for 2220 at Da Ilia (Via Lecco 1). We found the place after walking down the wrong street, but once we arrived, we found a small neighborhood thriving with people out having dinner, caffe and cocktails. There were a number of places along this small side street across from a park. We found Da Ilia, and after every single person greeted us, we were seated at a table in the covered patio area. It was evident that a good meal was to come. Would it be great? Yeah, it would be. Everyone ordered something different; we had the house vino & plenty of grissini. I made a promise to myself to order items that I would not normally see in the US. I ordered Lardo with crostini. Everyone cringed at the table when I gave the waiter my order. It is pork fat that has been cured and seasoned with herbs, then sliced paper thin and served with crostini. All I got to say is, BUONA! (that means pretty damn good in Italian). I, being the maiale I am, ordered two more courses after that. The next being a bresaola, rocket & shaved parmesan salad. Again, it was good, some of the best arugula I’ve had. It was nutty and peppery at the same time. The bresaola was sliced paper thin and the parmesan was the real deal (of course!). My last course was a house made tortelloni stuffed with fresh ricotta & spinach in a brown butter sauce with parmesan and sage. (yeah, it was also good). All of the pasta at this restaurant was made fresh everyday. Other dishes were papparadelle with fresh porcini mushrooms, penne with melanzane and a pounded bistecca that was so tender and flavorful, presented by itself on a plate drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. What a great evening – the staff was so pleasant and so friendly. They spoke broken English to compliment our broken Italian and we got on just fine. We rolled into our beds well after midnight, sated and ready for the next adventure…
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Varenna, Lake Como
Hotel Milano
After a mad dash to find our train (little did we know how easy it was). We could have just consulted the easy-to-read schedule posted throughout the station, but no, we looked at monitors at the platforms and figured out which train. Running to get to it.
One hour later, we arrived in picturesque Varenna, on the shore of Lake Como. After a 10 minute, windy downhill walk to the hotel, we left our bags with our most knowledgeable innkeeper. She gave us the best itinerary for our day and a half in Lake Como. Lake Como has a few towns around the lake that are all accessible by ferry or water taxi. We left Varenna and took the ferry to Villa Carlotta. Villa Carlotta was built in the 16th century by a Milanese Banker and named after his wife, Carlotta. The villa was five floors, with approximately 9 acres of gardens. We were able to tour the entire garden, but only had access to two floors of the villa. The main floor housed artwork that was original to the house, the fifth floor had the original bedrooms and parlours. We then took the ferry to Bellagio for some shopping and views, then back to Varenna.
Friday, July 4,2008 – Independence Day
Varenna, Lake Como
Hotel Milano
Fireworks!!!! Disneyland fireworks explain how much thunder and lightening we saw ( I shouldn’t say ‘I’, because, growing up in the Midwest, well, you know, show me something new!) amazing lighting strikes over the lake and thunder that would wake the dead! Since most of our group was from Oregon & California, they were all up to watch the amazing show. However violet the storm was the night before, the next day was picture perfect! I’ll send a separate email with the details of an ‘off the beaten path’ walk that was wonderful!
More from Varenna, Fuimelatte & Bolzano – Ciao!
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